Eyes Wide Open: Nepal 18 Days

Random Thoughts

2009-10-18T07:03:00.000-07:00

Every year, over 12,000 Nepalese girls are sold into the brothels of Calcutta for as little as 800 rupees. That's about AU $12.

Nepalese villagers living in remote parts of the country are selling their kidneys to India in the hope their children can eat and go to school. They are promised 800,000 rupees but are paid only 80,000. There is an NGO working to assist those who are dying as a result of the operation.

Having soap available in households will reduce diseases like diarrhoea and respiratory infections by 50%. There are campaigns to help educate Nepalese about the importance of washing their hands with soap.

On 1 June 2008, the Nepal Communist Party was elected after 10 years of Maoist rule. Western trekkers are no longer held up on the mountains by the armed Maoist insurgents demanding money and there is relative peace. On the flip side, people are still starving and living well below the poverty line. There is no infrastructure, rubbish lines the streets and power outs are a daily occurrence in Kathmandu. 2011 is 'Come Visit Nepal Year', so let's hope that with the encouragement of tourism, Nepal's people are also taken care of.

When you know nothing, a little bit of information is a lot. If one girl now understands what HIV is and how she can avoid contracting it, our trip has been worth it.

If one mother teaches her family how to prevent the spread of tuberculosis as a result of our public health clinics, I am happy.

If one young person now has the confidence to apply for a job that requires basic English, we've achieved something worthwhile.

If a teenage girl has learnt how to knit a hat which she can sell at the market for 200 rupees, then we have helped one family start to generate an income.

Destitute is a word that sounds like the end of the road. If we have helped nine children at the Centre for Destitute Children find the start of a new road because every day they see their 'Mural of Hope', we have helped dreams seem closer.

If this trip is reinvigorated someone's passion for the humanitarian side of Rotary, then only more good can follow.

If even one person on this trip feels inspired to contribute in a greater way to the lives of those who do not have food, water, shelter or security, then an objective has been achieved.

Yesterday, Damien, Sue and I were walking up the stairs of the Tharlam Guest House to our rooms to start the laborious task of packing. We met a Chinese girl on the stairs who was carrying a tiny, starving puppy in a cardboard box. She'd rescued it from the garbage along the roadside and was pleading with the manager of the Guest House to take care of the puppy as she was returning to China. He said no. Somehow the box ended up in our hands when we realised the puppy desperately needed water and some food. Sue had seen a litter of puppies about the same size so off we went trying to find the mother of this bag of bones. Nope, not the same litter of pups. The mother snarled and growled. As we stood on the street wondering what to do next, a Norwegian guy walked past. Damien jokingly asked if he wanted a puppy. He said "no, but I will take you down to the Stupa where a volunteer vet checks over stray dogs". Bag of bones was wormed and checked, but still no home. We asked Andrea, another European volunteer, what to do. She told us to plea with the monks at the monastry that adjoined our accommodation. Sue emptied her wallet of rupees in exchange for reassurance that 'Lucky' would be taken care of by the monastry. The head monk agreed and Lucky met her new family of Bhudhist monks. She howled all night but seemed ok in the morning. From my window I could see the young monks take it in turns to give her pats and food as they practiced saying her name, 'Lucky, Lucky'. On the day when Nepali stray dogs are given marigold garlands and worshipped as part of a cultural festival, Lucky serendipitously started her new life in the care of Bhuddist monks.

Lena

We arrive back in Melbourne Monday 1:05pm

2009-10-17T02:44:00.000-07:00

More pictures from Annapurna

2009-10-17T02:15:00.000-07:00

We arrived safely back from Pokhara yesterday after a harrowing 12 hour bus trip; one that's supposed to take 8 hours. There was a 'bandh' - a protest about an accident that had occurred the day before where 8 people were killed. A group of locals parked a truck across the road which attracted the police. They were negotiating for better road conditions. The road are shocking and there seem to be no road rules.

Last night we took our porters out for pizza and beer. They politely told us that our trek was extremely easy and slow. They are used to going up 6,000m to Everest Second Base Camp. Oh well, the scenery was certainly worth it.

We are doing some last minute shopping - Damien and David went off to a carpet factory and the girls are enjoying the cool breeze on a rooftop overlooking a Stupa in Bhouda.

We have included some more pictures of our trekking adventure and hope that these do justice to the amazing experience and scenery.

Pictures from our Annapurna adventure

2009-10-14T05:05:00.002-07:00

Dr Ben, you missed out on an unforgettable adventure, but your spirit was brought up the mountain when Trevor's foot spent the day with a leech. We pondered about what you would do, and the collective answer was flick it and kill it.

Comment From Tess

2009-10-14T05:05:00.001-07:00

Trying to contact the brilliant Sue Foley to see if we can get some publicity for E-Wo in Oz - are you contactable by phone ? And this is also to congratulate you all - and Rotary especially, for this wonderful idea of combining human business with human pleasure. It is the difference between being a Tourist and a fellow Traveller in this extraordinary world. Tess Lawrence

Comments from the blog

2009-10-14T04:55:00.000-07:00

As comments are not posting onto the blog, I have chosen a couple to upload:

From Christian:
Stunning photos already. and again smiling kids that warm your hearts. Amazing what I can sense from here, New Zealand, what you achieve just being there. Who had the great idea of the mural! leaves an unforgettable painting in everyones heart. I assume you are now on the trek returning with a bunch of more pics. Can't wait to see them. Have you a come across John Woods life work called a "book to read" which became famous as John was a previous top Microsoft executive who on a trip in Nepal realized his real life mission: Building libraries and schools in Nepal using his global network and the ones his friends had. Nepal before him had many schools with not one book!
Lena knows me a poet so here is one for you called
What is more beautiful?

I looked into those eyes
saw her smile
heard the giggle
the enjoyment of life
I couldn't help myself
smiling back
giggle myself
enjoying life

I have seen the gigantic mountains
evidence that God exists
I have heard the roaring thunder
and seen the big white clouds
covering the land

I have met him shortly
trusted him on the spot
fell in love with him without a condition
felt a life long bond
he is 8 and I'm 45
and I can't resist to connect

I have seen the eagles
their effortless flights
their beauty and pride
I have felt the wind and the nature
impressing me greatly
and I wondered do I ever return home

But there is no question in my mind
since I opened my eyes
The most beautiful is the
incredible smile

Written just for you
Christian

From Emandee (about us staying in traditional Nepalese accommodation with low ceilings!)
Some thoughts for the tall people who have to bend-
A man never stands as tall as when he kneels to help a child.
If you aren't in over your head you don't know how tall you are.
Tall people have a good view even when they stand at the back.
Best wishes to all
Emandee

BACK FROM THE TREK

2009-10-14T04:33:00.000-07:00

After sharing my sleeping bag with a bug, my ear with a mosquito, the walking track with a donkey train and a couple of baby goats, my coffee with insects and my bum with the wet, slippery rock, I am feeling a sense of relief to be back on solid ground where the air offers 100% oxygen!

Yes, we all made it back in one piece, albeit with a few complaints. The scenery was spectacular. Each morning we were greeted with a breathtaking view of snow capped Annapurna South or Fish Tail Mountain. Our hard work during the day was rewarded at night with a nice meal, often cooked by our multi skilled porters. Our porter crew were amazing - Kath was hand escorted up and down mountains and through streams by her very experienced porter Sheba. Netra saved me a couple of times from certain sacral damage and the others just knew when to offer their hand to their customers. We were even given a hot water bottle at night to keep us warm.

Tomorrow is a free day in Pokhara to recover. I think massages might be on the cards for most. Speaking of cards, Damien has taught us all a few new card games.

We'll be back online later with some pictures from our trek.
Lena

Message for Tess

2009-10-10T07:26:00.000-07:00

Hi Tess - thanks for your interest

We'll be on Trek for 4 days but you can try to ring us on +61417013614

Would love some publicity in Oz - so give us a ring - Thats Lenas phone

Thanks for following the adventure...

Promise to be in more photos when I shed a few kilos on the Trek!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Love Sue

2009-10-10T07:15:00.000-07:00

After a day sweating it out in the heat helping children at the 'Destitute Home' to paint a Mural of Hope, it's now time to prepare for our next challenge, a four day trek up and around the Annapurna Range. It's only up to 2000m high, so no threat of altitude sickness, but some of us are fighting sick stomachs and colds, probably a result of hanging around Nepal's poorer children!

We will be offline for a few days, so hold tight for the updates.

Thank you for your support from afar.

Final Day before the Trek

2009-10-10T06:26:00.000-07:00

Me again.. I managed to get back in the good books with my tour pals and did help with the painting of the Mural of Hope. So I might not get nudged off the mountain by disgruntled painters. The day at the Destitute Children's home was fantastic. There are 20 children living there and 6 of them painted the paintings on the wall. It was very hot but it certainly didn't stop everyone joining in. Those children not engaged in the painting spent the day reading and learning new card games. I really need to brush up on the rules for Fish as I have a feeling I have started a new trend in Nepal with incorrect rules.. oops.. There are some pictures of the mural and the activities - hope you enjoy them. Well it might be the only proof we have that we did it because not an hour after we completed the mural and bid farewell to our Rotoract friends and the Children an almighty rain storm came through. I'm not sure I really want to know what happened to the wall - prefer to believe it survived and will remain a monument to our perseverance! We are having our last dinner before the trek and everyone is a bit nervous but very excited. Cant wait to see the mountains close up... So we will be off the air for 4 days - no WiFi on the mountain... seriously! I mean talk about having to slum it. Someone would make a fortune if they opened a Bar with Wi Fi and Chardy about half way up... note to self (see about opening an Irish Bar on the himalyas) And speaking of Irish Bars - will be visiting Paddy Foley's bar in Katmandu on our last night (more of that later)..... So wish us luck and say one for me ( I think I'll need help from the almighty to get through this - and if Bishnu and Buddha want to kick in I'm not opposed to additional help.... See you in 4 days.. Sue

Hi Ricqui from Boof

2009-10-10T06:25:00.000-07:00

Greetings from Nepal

2009-10-10T06:23:00.000-07:00

Hi Ricqui from Boof.

Various photos

2009-10-09T23:02:00.000-07:00

Bludging in Pokhara

2009-10-09T22:11:00.000-07:00

Hi to all our Blog followers.. Sue here - first time blogging in Nepal. We haven't had much luck with computers here but have found a cafe so I'm sitting her updating you all whilst my fellow travellers are on top of a roof - in the heat - painting a mural at the home for Destitute Children in Pokhara. Should be feeling guilty I suppose - but someone has to keep the folks at home up to date!!! As Lena has told you the trip to Pokhara was interesting (for interesting read "I've looked death in the eye!") but the hours passed quickly - we played cards and a few travel games which were loads of fun...We'll see how they hold up on the way back again.. Maybe Damien will have had time to practice clapping and thinking at the same time... then again we are only here for 4 days.. Ali and Lena were great at the singing game and Isobell cleaned up at cards. I think David and I were really just making up the numbers.. Once here we had a free day yesterday which was just as well as we had been out the night before having fun and dancing... Damien and Ali tripped the light fantasic with some Jive (really Ali you must learn to follow instructions!) and Netra our guide was the stand out champion with his breakdancing (until his shoe flew off and landed on another table causing much hilarity amongst the waiters). A bit of shopping preparing for our trek - I'm not sure I have really thought this whole thing through - I mean, no showers, no toilets, no electricity, no chardy! Plus - have you seen these mountains??? View from the window this morning was amazing - first time we have seen the ice caps of the mountains.. Spectacular but steep and high - and me with a dodgy hip.. I guess I could plead insanity (which I have obviously had a case of) or my hip could flare up (note to self - no more bollywood dancing!) But it looks like I'm just going to have to pack my bag and follow the others. I have asked for the tallest, best looking guide (just in case he ends up carrying me). I have been promised the "no Rortarian will be left behind" but as you know - just in case - all my affairs are in order.... I'm going to try to upload some photos - hope it works - some great photos thanks to Sally's camera (thanks Sal - taking good care of it) I suppose I cant stretch this out any further - going to have to go back to the roof and help the team with the painting. We have been joined by members of the local Rotoract club - all young people who are trying to improve their city - they have instigated a recyling program for plastic bottles which seems to be working - the rubbish here is incredible - so its good to see some elements of hope. We are all having a great time - the projects have been very valuable and the tours are fantastic. So regards from us all and catch up with you on the next blog.

Arrived in Pokhara

2009-10-08T23:35:00.000-07:00

After a 10 hour bus trip (delayed due to landslide), we've arrived in Pokhara, a beautiful lakeside town based at the foothills of the Annapurna mountain range. It's the starting point for most trekkers taking on the mountains in this area, so lots of tourists and hikers.
We are about to have lunch with the Pokhara Rotaract Group and tomorrow we'll be doing a 'Mural of Hope' with orphaned children at the Opportunity Vilage in Pokhara.
For all those following the blog, thank you. I can see your comments, but they do not show up on the blog, despite me fiddling with the permisions. Thanks for all your support. We have been doing some great work and making Australian Rotary proud.

Cannot post photos on this computer...

Tuesday in Bhaktapur

2009-10-07T04:14:00.000-07:00

In the morning, we had a guide explain the ornate Bhuddist and Hindu temples that form the city of Bhaktapur. Some of the structures were built in the 1100s and in fact there is a replica of one of the temples in the Melbourne Museum. Apparently architects and engineers cannot work out how the Nepalese constructed the temple, so it is an example of an Asian architectural wonder!

In the afternoon, we visited the Bhaktapur Cancer Hospital. The Head Doctor met us and showed us around the hospital. We met some of the young cancer patients and donated books and toys. They showed us a very expensive radiation machine that an American group donated, only they cannot use it as they are also in need of a calibration machine. Damien is going to consult some friends at the Peter Mac Hospital to see what is required. The Hospital is supported by five Rotary Clubs in Nepal, but is clearly in need of some additional help.

For dinner, we returned to the Women's Refuge for a traditional Newali meal and cultural performance. The women and children of the Centre had been stitching costumes and practicing dance routines in preparation for our visit. The men in our group were presented with Nepalese hats and the women scarves - a token of love. Unfortunately, as with most Nepalese activities, it didn't run on time, but never the less, it was worth the wait.

Monday's Pictures: Temple and Teaching at the Women's Refuge

2009-10-05T19:26:00.000-07:00

Monday 5 October

2009-10-05T08:58:00.000-07:00

We arrived in Bhaktapur this morning: an ancient, world heritage listed city comprising beautiful temples, the old King's palace, a Dhurbar Square made from bricks and intricate wood carvings and narrow streets lined with pashmina vendors. We are staying right in the middle of the heritage listed area and in fact our guest house is yet another restored traditional Nepalese house with low ceilings.

Our work this afternoon involved running clinics at the Bhaktapur Women's Refuge, a Bhaktapur Rotary Club sponsored project. Ben conducted TB prevention classes, Ali and Sue did HIV/AIDS prevention, Geri and David taught basic conversational English, Trevor and Damien taught dental hygiene and Kath conducted knitting classes for about 9 women. In all, we taught over 100 women throughout the day as they rotated into each of our classes. They made a special lunch for us which involved the ceremonial application of buffalo curd on our foreheads!

Kath's students excelled with making a woollen hat and we have discussed the possibility of helping the women start a small business so they can sell the hats locally or we may be able to assist them by selling them in Australia.

The women who go to the refuge are in desperate need of education. The refuge's philosophy is to start educating women in Nepal so that their children will receive a higher level of knowledge about health, hygiene and literacy.

Many of the women at the refuge have been raped or badly abused by their husbands or other men that they encounter during their work in carpet factories and on building sites. Women often wash cement or cut stone. Urmila, the Centre's President, told me that one of her women was killed by her husband last Christmas over a dowry dispute. He poured kerosene on her and set her alight.

The monthly rent at the Refuge is AU $100 / month. They are in need of assistance to continue to pay the rent and ensure these women continue their journey of education. Most of them are the first members of their families to hold a pen and write.

It was a successful day. We'll return tomorrow to the project for dinner and to watch a dance show the women have prepared for us.

Photos to follow, but the connection here is difficult.

More images: Eyes Wide Open Nepal 2009

2009-10-04T09:16:00.000-07:00

Sunday 4 October

2009-10-04T08:30:00.000-07:00

Today we left Kopan and headed to a city called Patan located on the outskirts of the Kathmandu Valley. Patan is a world heritage listed city known for its ancient stupas, temples and Dhurba Square. The Square features fascinating architecture and masonry. We are staying in a restored 300 year old traditional Nepalese guest house. The height of the doors and ceilings is about 5'6", and that's in the tall parts. Tall members of our group are walking around with hunched backs!! It's such an interesting place to stay.

Today we donated five wheelchairs (thanks to those who sponsored the costs of the wheelchairs) to a Disability Centre which is supported by the Pashupati Rotaract Group. The Club manages to donate 1200 rupees to the centre each month but is clearly in need of additional funds. Whist donating the wheelchairs, we met eight of the Centre's children: two were blind, one had cerebral palsy, one was autistic and the rest had physical disabilities. In all, the Centre cares for 31 children.

After a delicious lunch, we headed to an orthopaedic centre which receives funding from various Rotary Clubs around the world. Our ortho registrar, Ben, enjoyed the visit and hopes to be able to source vacuum forming machine to help make the orthoses.

We had a lovely dinner in a rooftop overlooking the Dhurbar Square. Damien is now teaching us a new card game called 'Friar Tuck'.

Images from our first three days in Nepal

2009-10-03T19:24:00.000-07:00

Eye Opening Nepal

2009-10-03T07:36:00.000-07:00

The level of development here has been a shock to the group. The power goes out, there is not always hot water, the internet works for a few minutes at a time and water is pumped from makeshift wells. There is rubbish lining the streets and goats being skinned on the roadside. It is confronting.

The other side of Nepal is the ancient temples and stupas built in the 1200s. We visited the Swayambhunath Temple yesterday - an amazing stucture with both Bhuddist and Hindu worship areas. We also attended a Dharma meditation teaching this morning at the White Monestary in Bhouda.

After our meditation we went to do some volunteer work at Ghar Situ Mutu Women's and Children's Refuge. It means home of the heart. We met the centre's manager Beverley, a British lady who lives in New York but spends 20 weeks a year being 'mummy' at the refuge. She fundraises in NYC and manages to school and care for about 30 children. She is working with Rotary to purchase a soy milk machine and some a generator.

Picture from Bright Future Community Centre

2009-10-03T07:25:00.000-07:00

Internet access in Nepal has been difficult so it's been a challenge to upload images and even find a connection that will last out long enough to write a few words. It's 8:15pm on Saturday night and I'm at Dreamland Computer Centre with Netra, our local guide. Dreamland is a computer centre established by the Kew on Yarra Club which is dedicated to helping local children learn computer skills so they might find jobs and break the cycle of poverty.

Yesterday and today we have spent the mornings at Bright Future Community Centre teaching English, conducting reading classes and teaching games like Uno and dominoes. The children who attend the Centre have bright prospects thanks to the education they are receiving: they will learn to speak good English for a start. One girl has aspirations to be an air hostess. Her life otherwise may have been on the streets or prostitution. It's hard to believe but child selling into the sex trade is prevalent.

Last night the children put on a 'cultural performance' for us which included dances and songs they had been practising for months. They were so pleased to perform in front of guests from another country!

Bright Future Community Centre

2009-10-01T19:53:00.001-07:00

After a long flight and rather scary bus trip from the airport to our accommodation, we headed to Bright Future Community Centre to do some reading classes with the children, aged between 5 and 16.
The children were anticipating our visit and looking forward to practicing their English with us.
The Centre is supported by the Kew on Yarra Rotary Club.
Today (Friday) we again went to teach some English classes at the Bright Future Community Centre and will be joined again by the children this evening for a concert.

At Bangkok Airport

2009-09-30T18:04:00.000-07:00

We have all arrived safely and are waiting to board our flight to Kathmandu in a couple of hours.

After a little trouble checking on box loads of children's books and toys, we're off and away.

More updates to come...

18 days to go!

2009-09-10T16:24:00.000-07:00

Not long to go now...travel injections, hiking boots, passport, US dollars, torch, thermals, books, toys...check. Team E-WO are just about ready to jetset across to Nepal where we will be doing some volunteer work at a number of Rotary projects. We'll be running seminars at a women's clinic, donating wheelchairs to a Disability Centre, teaching English, helping at Dreamland Computer Centre and bringing some cheer to cancer sufferers at Bhaktapur Cancer Hospital.

I hope you can follow our journey...

Lena

30 days to go!

2009-08-30T18:14:00.000-07:00

Team E-WO Nepal has started the 30 day countdown to departure! The team is: Sue, Alison, Trevor, Kath, Ben, David, Damien and Geri along with guides Isabel, Netra and Lena. We're looking forward to undertaking some life-shaping work at six Rotary projects. We hope you can follow this blog for updates, highlights and photos.

18 Days in Nepal with Eyes Wide Open

2009-07-06T22:52:00.000-07:00

Are you coming with us? I hope so. This will be an unforgettable humanitarian adventure in one of the most picturesque places on earth. 18 days in Nepal, six Rotary humanitarian projects, a four day trek through the Annapurna range...
...start blogging and don't forget to tell your friends and family to follow your journey.